Book review: Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton

September 23rd, 2011 by Penny Golightly

We haven’t had a book review for a while, have we? Let’s get straight back into it with this copy of Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton.

He’s the clever clogs behind the dishes at the Michelin-starred Maze. The premise of the book is that you can have fine dining for a fiver per head, by which he means a light-ish two-course meal (starter and main, or main and dessert) without drinks.

Without a doubt this is dinner party food, or a hearty lunch for foodies, and the recipes are all to serve four people. It’s easy enough to scale the portions up or down too. In order for it to truly be a meal for a fiver you have to have quite a few store cupboard staples already otherwise you’ll be buying in extra ingredients that can cost a fair bit for a whole bottle or packet.

It also helps if you live near a decent fishmonger or butcher, as there are many ingredients that work out great value for money and are very tasty indeed, but you’re unlikely to get them from the average supermarket. Likewise, some of the flavourings would be best purchased from an Indian grocery shop, or a Chinese or Thai supermarket.

The book also relies on seasonal foods, things that are at their best and also hopefully cheaper because they’re plentiful. I’d say that you’d need to be a fairly confident cook to tackle some of the dishes, intermediate to advanced level mainly, but you’d be able to make some real show-stoppers.

It’s the chef-y touches that really make this book, including the ‘plating up’ directions. It’s all designed to look beautiful when you serve it up, and each recipe is accompanied by a full page colour photo. The desserts are stunning.

If I’m going to be niggly, some of the chef-yness is also a slight drawback at times as the home cook cannot haggle for trade discounts on ingredients and loses out on economies of scale. One example is the creation of a pudding that’s entirely made from staple ingredients, which then has ’15g of fresh coconut’ shaved over the top of it – fine of you’re making 20 in a restaurant kitchen, not within budget for the average home cook as it’s impossible to buy this amount on its own. This is where experience and ability to improvise comes in handy, as a little grated chocolate or sprinkle of toasted dessicated coconut could be possible substitutes.

In summary: a very beautiful cookbook with fresh, innovative recipes and seasonal ingredients. Not one for beginners, but definitely a book to consider if you’d like to shake up your romantic dinner repertoire or try something new when you’re feeding your foodie friends. Worth it for the desserts alone.

Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton is published by Quadrille Ltd and has an RRP of £14.99. It’s currently available from Amazon priced £7.70 and qualifies for free Super Saver delivery.

 

Book review: From Pasta to Pancakes

July 12th, 2009 by Penny Golightly

I’ve always said that everyone should learn to cook. It’s a survival skill that you can actively enjoy, and it saves you a fortune if you shop reasonably carefully. Over time you also learn what real food should taste like, and it shows you what poor value so many ready meals, fast food outlets and restaurants offer to us. I started cooking family meals at the age of ten, and over the years my confidence has increased and my palate has developed.

Meanwhile, I know plenty of other people who grew up in households where all or most of the food they ate was processed or bought from takeaways, or where one of the parents took complete control of all the food purchasing and preparation. Many of them would like to learn to cook, but don’t know where to start. This is where a good basic introductory cookbook comes in. The one I’m reviewing today is From Pasta to Pancakes – The Ultimate Student Cookbook’ by Tiffany Goodall, priced £9.99 from Quadrille Publishing Ltd.

Pasta To Pancakes

The two main criticisms of student cookbooks in general are that most do not contain enough pictures of finished dishes (so that you know the dish has turned out OK), and that the authors tend to assume too much prior knowledge of technical culinary terms. The format of From Pasta to Pancakes is unusual in that it includes several colour photographs to illustrate the making of each recipe, from ingredient preparation through to serving. The publishers describe this as a cartoon-strip design, but it reminded me more of ‘photo love’ stories from old teen magazines: I found this quite endearing as well as colourful and appetising. This does make the book a little larger and heavier than some competing tomes, but offers more pros than cons for the beginner. As for the technical terms, these are kept simple and are mostly fully explained as the recipe goes along, although there are occasionally references such as ‘lardons’ that a novice wouldn’t necessarily understand.

I particularly like the small sections on suggested basic kitchen equipment (no fancy gadgets needed for any of the recipes), store cupboard ingredients and food hygiene. It’s also great to see that underneath each recipe there are ‘optional extras’, which are suggestions to perk up the dish or create variations so that you could cook it a few times over a term and not become bored. Many recipes also include serving suggestions, and ideas for using the dish up the next day if there are any leftovers.

The recipes are split up into quick dishes and snacks, healthier meals, packed lunches, cakes and treats, everyday meals to share and dinner party food. Most of the dishes use cheap and easily available ingredients, but my only niggle is that the cheapest recipes in the book are not highlighted as such. One or two ‘end of term and end of overdraft’ recipes would have been a good idea in light of the current student funding and debt situation.

To sum up, this is an attractive book with a good range of recipes in it, and it will give a novice cook enough confidence and inspiration to start whipping up a variety of basic and intermediate-level dishes. It would certainly get the reader through their first term at university without becoming bored or contracting scurvy, and its author clearly has a sound understanding of both cookery and the ins and outs of student life. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to learn to cook, but who has no prior experience.

***If you’d like a free copy of this book, I have one copy to give away to the author of the best comment in response to this blog entry. The winner must be in the UK, and will be chosen at the end of this week. Get posting!***

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