Book review: Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton

September 23rd, 2011 by Penny Golightly

We haven’t had a book review for a while, have we? Let’s get straight back into it with this copy of Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton.

He’s the clever clogs behind the dishes at the Michelin-starred Maze. The premise of the book is that you can have fine dining for a fiver per head, by which he means a light-ish two-course meal (starter and main, or main and dessert) without drinks.

Without a doubt this is dinner party food, or a hearty lunch for foodies, and the recipes are all to serve four people. It’s easy enough to scale the portions up or down too. In order for it to truly be a meal for a fiver you have to have quite a few store cupboard staples already otherwise you’ll be buying in extra ingredients that can cost a fair bit for a whole bottle or packet.

It also helps if you live near a decent fishmonger or butcher, as there are many ingredients that work out great value for money and are very tasty indeed, but you’re unlikely to get them from the average supermarket. Likewise, some of the flavourings would be best purchased from an Indian grocery shop, or a Chinese or Thai supermarket.

The book also relies on seasonal foods, things that are at their best and also hopefully cheaper because they’re plentiful. I’d say that you’d need to be a fairly confident cook to tackle some of the dishes, intermediate to advanced level mainly, but you’d be able to make some real show-stoppers.

It’s the chef-y touches that really make this book, including the ‘plating up’ directions. It’s all designed to look beautiful when you serve it up, and each recipe is accompanied by a full page colour photo. The desserts are stunning.

If I’m going to be niggly, some of the chef-yness is also a slight drawback at times as the home cook cannot haggle for trade discounts on ingredients and loses out on economies of scale. One example is the creation of a pudding that’s entirely made from staple ingredients, which then has ’15g of fresh coconut’ shaved over the top of it – fine of you’re making 20 in a restaurant kitchen, not within budget for the average home cook as it’s impossible to buy this amount on its own. This is where experience and ability to improvise comes in handy, as a little grated chocolate or sprinkle of toasted dessicated coconut could be possible substitutes.

In summary: a very beautiful cookbook with fresh, innovative recipes and seasonal ingredients. Not one for beginners, but definitely a book to consider if you’d like to shake up your romantic dinner repertoire or try something new when you’re feeding your foodie friends. Worth it for the desserts alone.

Gourmet food for a fiver by Jason Atherton is published by Quadrille Ltd and has an RRP of £14.99. It’s currently available from Amazon priced £7.70 and qualifies for free Super Saver delivery.

 

Book review: The Frugal Cook by Fiona Beckett

September 15th, 2009 by Penny Golightly

The tag line of this book is “Buy cleverly. Waste less. Eat well.” That’s quite a tall order, but if the bottom line is that you want to learn how to cut your food spending without sacrificing the flavour then this book is probably for you.

I was forced to study home economics at school long after it had become completely unfashionable, and remember vividly that every other recipe seemed to call for lard. However, it did give me a grounding in basic cooking techniques, a feeling of general competence in the kitchen and an understanding of how to plan menus. From the age of 10 I was also responsible for cooking a complete family meal without supervision, one evening each week.

Most people my age and younger don’t have the advantage of this kind of background, and yes, I do now see it as an advantage (even if I still question the wisdom of leaving a curious 11-year-old alone with a deep fat fryer). Many of us have grown up in households where people reheat ready-meals and don’t actually cook, and most of us tend to shop haphazardly and with the primary aim of convenience. When you shop purely for convenience, you nearly always lose out on economy and health, and quite often you lose out on taste too. Sometimes, though, making a change seems daunting to the point of being overwhelming.

 TheFrugalCook

So, back to The Frugal Cook. The main advantage of the book is that it teaches you from scratch how to shop for, store and cook your food. If you lack confidence it will get you started with ease, and if you’ve lost your way a little it’s a handy refresher course. It shows how to plan ahead, where to buy quality, and where you can cut corners. Fortunately it does not leave you slaving in the kitchen every night – times have changed and many of us do need quick easy meals that don’t need much preparation.

The recipes are divided into six main sections: breakfast/brunch, lunches/snacks, easy midweek suppers, bigger weekend cook-ups, and parties. Each recipe has variations mentioned afterwards, so that you can cook each one a few times without it feeling monotonous, and there are extra thrifty tips on each page too. There’s also a small chapter about leftovers, both accidental and deliberate, which is worth a read. It’s an excellent book if you want to learn how to get into a better mindset with your groceries – Fiona really knows what she’s writing about, and it shows.

My only gripe is that while colour photography has been used throughout the book, there are no pictures at all of finished dishes, which seems like a bit of a wasted opportunity as these are so helpful for novice or nervous cooks – but that sort of decision tends to lie with the publishers and not the author. Perhaps it would be a popular addition when the book comes to be reprinted or revised.

The Frugal Cook by Fiona Beckett is published by Absolute Press with an RRP of £14.99. In the average household it would pay for itself in less than one week of grocery shopping.

I also have one copy to give away to the first person to correctly answer this question: How many cookbooks has Fiona Beckett written to date? Leave your answer in the comments section below, UK entrants only please. Good luck!

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